What you need: Approximately 1 yard of minky (or similarly soft) fabric. I actually got 1 1/8 yard so I have a little extra to make a tag blanket for her later. Coordinating thread (or something plain like white or cream...the minky hides it pretty well). 1/4" wide elastic. Dresser top changing pad.
For the record I do not wash my minky first. I think washing and drying it distorts it somewhat and makes it more difficult to cut. I also used one of the selvages for eyeballing my straight edge.
Stand your changing pad up on one short end and trace the end onto paper (I used construction paper). Then you are going to add 1/2" to each of the sides and top for the seam allowance. Also add 3" to the bottom. This portion will wrap under the changing pad and hold the elastic. (I used a 1/2" seam allowance because minky is slippery and that way if anything moved slightly I wouldn't have any issues with it pulling apart. It is for a child after all.)
Now you're going to measure for the main piece of the cover. This is going to be one giant rectangle that goes from end to end and wraps under on the long sides of the cover. (Remember...your side pieces had 3 inches added to them already.
So, measure from left to right and then add 1" to that measurement. My pad was 31" wide so I made that measurement 32" (1/2" for the seam allowance on each side.)
Step 4: Measure your rectangle out on the wrong side of your fabric and cut 1 rectangle. Then use your "pattern" for the short ends, trace it twice on the wrong side of the fabric, and cut out both end pieces.
Step 5: Now you need to line up your short pieces with the rectangular piece. Line the short side of an end piece to the side of your rectangle that will be on the short end. (Mine was square so it didn't matter.) Make sure that the points of your end piece are facing to the center and that you have right sides of the fabric facing each other. Pin this short edge in place.
Step 7: Do the same process with the other short end on the opposite side of the rectangle (1/2" seam allowance). Once both of these end pieces are sewn on you may need to trim things up to be a little more even. Do that if necessary.
Step 8: You now have the basic shape of your cover. Flip your cover right side out and take it to your changing pad to make sure it fits on nicely. (This is the best time to make adjustments if you need to, but remember it will fit more snuggly once the elastic is in.) If it fits you now need to make the casing for the elastic to go in. Begin folding the edges of your cover in towards the center by 1" and pin in place the whole way around. Sew this in place, remembering to back tack at the beginning and end, but also leave an opening about 1" wide so you can thread your elastic through the casing you've made.
Step 9: Cut your 1/4" wide elastic to be about 2.5 - 3 feet long. (***I must have had very stretchy elastic as I've received a few notes from people that they needed a bit more length than the original 2 feet I had posted. So I altered the suggested length for you. :) ) Attach a safety pin to each end. Secure one end of the elastic with the safety pin to the opening of the casing you made. Take the other end of the elastic with the other safety pin and push it through the casing until you have gone all of the way through your casing to the other side of your opening. You can now use the safety pins to help you find the correct tightness you would like on your cover by placing the cover on the changing pad and adjusting the elastic until it is to your liking.
Step 10: Once your elastic is to the length you would like it to be sew about an inch of it together and clip off any excess. Then sew shut your opening. (You can do that by hand, but I just placed mine back on the machine and started back where I had sewn previously a little back tacked and continued into where I had sewn on the other end of the opening and back tacked again. Your casing should look like this:
And VOILA! You have a Easy Contoured Changing Pad Cover!!! :)