7/04/2010

Tutorial: Changing Pad Cover

I'm trying make as much of the items for my daughters nursery as possible.  So this weekend I delved into the world of Changing Pad Covers.  There's something so nice about a warm and soft minky against the skin rather than a cold plastic-y changing pad isn't there?  (At least I would guess there was.  Not being a baby I couldn't tell you for sure.)

What you need:  Approximately 1 yard of minky (or similarly soft) fabric.  I actually got 1 1/8 yard so I have a little extra to make a tag blanket for her later.  Coordinating thread (or something plain like white or cream...the minky hides it pretty well).  1/4" wide elastic.  Dresser top changing pad.

For the record I do not wash my minky first.  I think washing and drying it distorts it somewhat and makes it more difficult to cut.  I also used one of the selvages for eyeballing my straight edge.

Step 1:
Stand your changing pad up on one short end and trace the end onto paper (I used construction paper).  Then you are going to add 1/2" to each of the sides and top for the seam allowance.  Also add 3" to the bottom.  This portion will wrap under the changing pad and hold the elastic.  (I used a 1/2" seam allowance because minky is slippery and that way if anything moved slightly I wouldn't have any issues with it pulling apart.  It is for a child after all.)


Step 2:
Now you're going to measure for the main piece of the cover.  This is going to be one giant rectangle that goes from end to end and wraps under on the long sides of the cover.  (Remember...your side pieces had 3 inches added to them already.

So, measure from left to right and then add 1" to that measurement.  My pad was 31" wide so I made that measurement 32" (1/2" for the seam allowance on each side.)

Then measure from the back bottom of the pad, up the side, down the back contour, across the middle, up the front contour, and down the front side.  (Back being the farthest side from you, front being the closest side to you.)  Make sure to follow this very closely, and use some little pieces of tape to hold everything in place if you need to.
Once you've taken that measurement and 6 inches to it.  3" for each long side just like we added 3" to the bottom of the end pieces.

Step 4:  Measure your rectangle out on the wrong side of your fabric and cut 1 rectangle.  Then use your "pattern" for the short ends, trace it twice on the wrong side of the fabric, and cut out both end pieces.

Step 5:  Now you need to line up your short pieces with the rectangular piece.  Line the short side of an end piece to the side of your rectangle that will be on the short end.  (Mine was square so it didn't matter.)  Make sure that the points of your end piece are facing to the center and that you have right sides of the fabric facing each other.  Pin this short edge in place.

Step 6:  Begin sewing the short end onto your rectangle with a 1/2" seam allowance.  Sew along where you pinned (making sure to back tack when you start) and when you get to a half inch away from the edge of the sloped side of your end piece stop.  Lift your presser foot (make sure your needle remains down) and manipulate the end piece only (this is important) so that the slope lines up with the edge of your rectangular piece.  You will have to stretch and pull at the end piece a little bit to maneuver it.  That's okay.  Continue doing this all along the dip of the end piece and back up the other slope.  Always keeping the edges lined up with the rectangle's edge.  When you get to a 1/2" from the other side of the short end stop again, lift your presser foot with the needle down, pull the end piece so that it is even with the edge of the rectangle again, lower your presser foot and continue sewing until the end (making sure to back tack at the end again).

Step 7:  Do the same process with the other short end on the opposite side of the rectangle (1/2" seam allowance).  Once both of these end pieces are sewn on you may need to trim things up to be a little more even.  Do that if necessary.

Step 8:  You now have the basic shape of your cover.  Flip your cover right side out and take it to your changing pad to make sure it fits on nicely.  (This is the best time to make adjustments if you need to, but remember it will fit more snuggly once the elastic is in.)  If it fits you now need to make the casing for the elastic to go in.  Begin folding the edges of your cover in towards the center by 1" and pin in place the whole way around.  Sew this in place, remembering to back tack at the beginning and end, but also leave an opening about 1" wide so you can thread your elastic through the casing you've made.

Step 9:  Cut your 1/4" wide elastic to be about 2.5 - 3 feet long.  (***I must have had very stretchy elastic as I've received a few notes from people that they needed a bit more length than the original 2 feet I had posted.  So I altered the suggested length for you. :) )  Attach a safety pin to each end.  Secure one end of the elastic with the safety pin to the opening of the casing you made.  Take the other end of the elastic with the other safety pin and push it through the casing until you have gone all of the way through your casing to the other side of your opening.  You can now use the safety pins to help you find the correct tightness you would like on your cover by placing the cover on the changing pad and adjusting the elastic until it is to your liking.

Step 10:  Once your elastic is to the length you would like it to be sew about an inch of it together and clip off any excess.  Then sew shut your opening.  (You can do that by hand, but I just placed mine back on the machine and started back where I had sewn previously a little back tacked and continued into where I had sewn on the other end of the opening and back tacked again.  Your casing should look like this:


And VOILA!  You have a Easy Contoured Changing Pad Cover!!!  :)


11 comments:

  1. I will be trying this tomorrow, hopefully it works out for me!! :)

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  2. Let me know if you have any questions! :)

    -Amanda-
    thecozypumpkin@gmail.com

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  4. I'm SO happy I found this page. Luckily I made a toile first and didn't wreck my minky because I suck at maneuvering around the sharp corners of the short sides. This way seems a LOT easier.

    Thanks!

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  5. I've looked at a couple tutorials for these and this is by far the best . . . and the easiest (I found) for working around those corners. Thanks!

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  6. I just used your tutorial! Thanks for this:)

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  7. great turtorial overall, thanks!

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  8. I can't make sense of step 5. I've looked at several other tutorials and they always have the pointy side facing the other way. Obviously I'm missing something. Can you please explain?

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  9. Crafter-

    I tried to e-mail you but you are a "no-reply" blogger. So you may want to check your settings. Hopefully you get this response! :) For step 5. You are literally going to be stretching at that side with the dip to match the straight edge of the body piece (big rectangle) for your changing pad.

    So, first you match the short edge of your angled end piece to the "short" edge of your rectangular piece. (My rectangular piece was a square so that made it easy for me.) Stitch along that edge with a 1/2" seam allowance until you get to a 1/2" from the point. Once there, with needle down, lift the presser foot. You are now going to stretch that downward dip angle to match the straight edge of rectangular piece. You shouldn't have to pull hard. The minky should work with you on that. Just make sure the edge of your angle and the edge of your rectangle remain lined up. Continue with this method keeping the middle section of your end piece lined up with the rectangular edge. Pull again so that as you go back "up" the last angle it is aligned with the edge of the rectangular piece. Stop when you get to a 1/2" away from the point. Needle down, presser foot up, pull and line up the short edge of the angled piece with the edge of the rectangular piece once again.

    When you flip it right side out you should have a contour to the edge of your pad. Hopefully this answers your question. You will have to manipulate your fabric. :) If you have further questions please feel free to e-mail me at thecozypumpkin@gmail.com

    -Amanda-

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    Replies
    1. Thank you so much for taking time to make this tutorial. It was just what I was looking for.

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