NQA Week #6: Quilting

Now that you have your quilt sandwiched we're ready to quilt the whole thing.


I want to apologize for the delay in getting this post up.  I have tried videoing two different ways, and taking many pictures to capture the quilting for you as best I can.  Ultimately, the videos just didn't work out.  My flip camera's screen is too small for us to tell if it's in focus (yep, my hubby was helping me) when we're videoing something so small.  And last night I had this post almost finished.  Blogger had a saving blip and I lost the majority of my post.  :/


We're going to start with the walking foot because it's a bit easier, and then we'll move on to free motion quilting (which I will refer to as FMQ from here on out).


Walking Foot Quilting

How do you know if you should use a walking foot?

• You want a straight line from one side to the other of your quilt.
• You want to stitch a pattern but want the lines to be straight and not free form (for example a zig zag...the lines are straight to each point.)
• You are going to be closely following seam lines in the quilt top either offset from them slightly (maybe a 1/4" on each side) or you are going to "stitch in the ditch" which means you will be quilting actually in the seams themselves.  **A note on this...this technique was more popular and useful when battings were fluffier b/c they had poly in them.  It would work great with wool batting which is loftier.  But, for 100% cotton I find this strategy to be a bit old fashioned and something that doesn't really show off on the quilt as nicely as other strategies of quilting.  Also, you can buy specific walking feet for "stitching in the ditch.")
• A walking foot can be useful in many non-quilting scenarios.  Anytime you are working with something that has bulk a walking foot is a useful tool.
• The benefit of a walking foot is that it has built in feed dogs in it.  These will move in tandem with your machine's feed dogs giving you a nice even feed on both the top and bottom of your quilt helping you to avoid puckering.

How do I attach my walking foot and what settings do I use?

• Every walking foot is slightly different as they are made to work with YOUR machine brand.  They also come with instructions (either in your manual or with your walking foot).  Make sure to read these in total.  
• For quilting with a walking foot I like to have my stitch length set at 3.0-3.5.

Before you sew:

• Make sure you are using a 14/90 needle or stronger (some people recommend a denim needle.  I like to use a 14/90 Quilting Needle.).  Don't use a 12/80 here those aren't strong enough.
• Use a GOOD quality Machine Quilting Thread.  This is especially important in FMQing, but still important for even stitching in machine quilting.  The end result and the fewer frustrations as you work are worth the extra money you spend.  (Everyone's machine likes different threads.  My machine hates Mettler but likes Isacord.  You may have to experiment.)
• DO NOT use a hand quilting thread unless it specifies that it can be used for both hand and machine quilting.  It has a waxy coating that is not good for your machine.
• Decide on the style of quilting you want to use.  Do you want simple straight lines?  Maybe you want to go on a diagonal?  Maybe you want a zig-zag look?  Whatever it is...draw it or mark it some way on your quilt top.  If you're doing straight lines at regular intervals you can use the guide bar (pictured below) to help you, draw your lines with a washable fabric pen, or use painter's tape.  I've never had luck with the painter's tape myself.  Maybe because it's humid here?  
• If you mark lines on your quilt.  Use a washable fabric pen.  Don't use a disappearing fabric pen. Your lines will vanish before you're done quilting.

Getting Started:

• Using your hand wheel (or your machines needle up/down button) put your needle down through the fabric to catch the bobbin thread.  Bring your needle back up and tug on your top thread to pull the bobbin thread up through the top of the fabric.

**In this picture you'll see an "L" shaped bar beside my walking foot.  This is a guide that comes with most walking feet.  You slide it into a notch on the back and it can assist you in getting even spacing between quilting lines.  Line the guide up with markings on your stitch plate to get this even spacing.  So, if I wanted 1" I'd make sure my needle was centered and then I'd place my guide at the 1" mark on plate of my machine.  Then I'd line up all of the stitching to the right with this guide as I begin to quilt a new line.  You can also use a washable fabric pen to draw your lines on your quilt to get more accurate and straighter stitching overall.

• Move your threads to the back of the foot.  Double check your stitch length setting and begin sewing at the edge of your quilt top.  DO NOT back stitch at any point.  I am going to show you how to tie off your thread ends and bury them in the quilt batting.
• Continue to sew following the pattern you determined prior to starting.  After you stitch for a bit, check the back of your quilt to make sure your tension is okay.

• I like to keep my needle in the "down" position.  That way if I have to stop I don't ever worry about my  needle getting out of alignment with my stitching.  Also make sure to keep a firm grip on your quilt and keep the fabric taut to reduce the chance of puckers.  As you quilt remove pins.  Don't stitch over them!  :)
• Stitch until you get to your stopping point.  If you do straight lines like I did that's at the other edge of your quilt.  Lift the presser foot and needle.  Now pull your quilt away from you about 4-6".  Grab that excess top thread, and move your quilt back into the place (or close to) where you stopped your stitching.  Use your needle up/down button or the hand wheel to pull the bobbin thread up to the top just like we did before.  

Ending your stitching:

Why do I knot off and bury my thread tails by hand?  Easy.  It's a cleaner look.  Some people suggest micro stitching.  This is when you do a 1/4" of stitches that are 0.5-1.0 in stitch length at the start and stop.  But, lets say you had to stop in the middle of the quilt...why would you want irregular stitching in the middle of your precious quilt?!  It takes a little time to do it my way, but it's seriously annoying to have to keep adjusting your stitch length over and over again.

Sorry about the typo in the picture, but after rewriting this post when part of it was deleted I'm too lazy to go back and make the change.

Voila!  You're done!!!  (Well, one line at least.)

A few more random Walking Foot tips:

• Your walking foot is NOT a race car.  This is a turtle.  It's a distance runner, not a sprinter. Keep your pace slow to moderate.  You'll get more even stitching and a straighter line.  
• It can be tempting, when quilting lines straight across your quilt, to stitch down to one side, stitch horizontally a bit in the seam allowance for the binding, and go back the other way.  DON'T DO IT!!!  Why?

1. It's a pain in the butt to be spinning your quilt sandwich around over and over again.  Shoving all of that through the machine is time consuming and frustrating.
2. Did you know your walking foot has a certain pressure as well?  And that this can effect the way your quilt back looks?  If your pressure is off even a tad your quilt back will pull slightly.  This isn't a big deal really, and you won't even notice it if your quilting is always going in the same direction.  But, if you rotate your quilt back and forth, back and forth, the pulling will go in opposite directions every line.  It's sloppy.
3. The ONLY time I give you permission to turn your quilt (as if I'll even ever know how you tackled it) is you start in the center, work your way out to the right edge, then turn your quilt around, go back to the center and work your way back out the other way.  The pulling on the back won't be crazy obvious since it's not repetitive.

Free Motion Quilting (FMQ)

Take a deep breath.  Make some small quilt sandwiches and practice first.  But...no matter how proficient you get at the tiny practice sandwiches it will feel different when gravity is pulling on that big quilt you're working on.  If you get frustrated, make sure your needle is always in the down position, and walk away.  It can wait.  You want to enjoy the process.  And FMQ is very strenuous work.  Seriously.  Your back, arms, and shoulders will be sore.

It helps me to think of the needle as my pencil and the fabric as my paper.  Only I'm sliding the paper around instead of the pencil.  Like a fun art experiment.

How do you know if you should use a free motion foot/stippling foot/darning foot?  (Click link for picture.)

• You want a free form style of quilting on your quilt top.
• You are not looking for uniformity, straight lines, or anything of that nature.

How do I attach my FMQ foot and what settings do I use?

• Every FMQ foot is slightly different as they are made to work with YOUR machine brand.  They also come with instructions (either in your manual or with your foot).  Make sure to read these in total.  
• For quilting with a FMQ foot your feed dogs should be in the DOWN position (check your manual.  Mine is a switch on the side of my machine.) and your stitch LENGTH should be set to 0.0.

Before you sew:

• Make sure you are using a 14/90 needle or stronger (some people recommend a denim needle.  I like to use a 14/90 Quilting Needle.).  Don't use a 12/80 here those aren't strong enough.
• Use a GOOD quality Machine Quilting Thread.  This is especially important in FMQing.  The end result and the fewer frustrations as you work are worth the extra money you spend.  (Everyone's machine likes different threads.  My machine hates Mettler but likes Isacord.  You may have to experiment.)
• DO NOT use a hand quilting thread unless it specifies that it can be used for both hand and machine quilting.  It has a waxy coating that is not good for your machine.
• You may choose to draw out your quilting pattern on the quilt itself.  If so use a water soluble fabric pen.  Do NOT use a disappearing ink fabric pen...your design will disappear before you can finish.  I saw wing it though.  It is "Free Motion" after all.
• I also suggest having 2-3 bobbins pre-wound.  You'll use A LOT of thread.

Getting Started:

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• Start in the center "top" of your quilt.  (See "Strategy" below.  I have an illustration...very high tech, that explains how I tackle a quilt.)
• Using your hand wheel (or your machines needle up/down button) put your needle down through the fabric to catch the bobbin thread.  Bring your needle back up and tug on your top thread to pull the bobbin thread up through the top of the fabric.
• Pull your threads to the back and out of the way.  Lower your presser foot.  It should be floating on top of your fabric, not mashing down on it.  You should be able to slide your quilt sandwich around without problem.  (It really helps if you have quilters gloves, or a similar option mentioned in this post to be wearing them as you FMQ.)  Double check your stitch length is 0.0.  
• Now make several stitches in place.  This will knot your thread for you and now begin stitching. Go about an inch or two and trim those thread tails off so they don't get caught up in your stitching.  Make sure your needle is locked into the down position before you take your foot off of the peddle.  You don't want your quilt to slip and leave a giant stitch.
• I suggest you begin with a "simple" meandering stitch.  I visualize coral as I do this.

Strategy:

• It's hard to FMQ when you have a lot of bulk in the throat of your machine.  To cut down on that start in the center of your quilt and work your way out to the right and back in to the center (see image above).  This way only half of your quilt is ever in the throat of your machine at a time.  When you get to the bottom pivot your quilt and work the other direction making sure to always fill in all of the spaces.  Meandering should never be more than a 1/2" - 1" apart.
• I start with the quilt in my lap and work pushing the quilt away from me.  Others like to start with the quilt behind the machine and pull it towards them.  I guess gravity is working in their favor that way?  See what makes you comfortable.  The more quilt you can have on the table at a time the easier it will be.
• Where should your hands be?  I like to grab fistfuls of my quilt on each side, pull the fabric taut and slide it around.  Some people like to use their finger tips or their hands in an "L" shape to move their quilt around.  Either way...make sure you fabric is flat.  You don't want puckers.  Also be aware of your pins and take them out as you go.
• Speed - This is a personal preference thing somewhat.  But, I suggest moderate speed and move your quilt in a similar fashion.  It's not a race.  Your stitches should be about 1/8" long each.  It's sort of like Goldilocks and the 3 Bears:

Too fast peddle + slow movement = micro stitching

Too slow peddle + fast movement = long basting like stitches

Moderate stitching + moderate movement = just right

I find that I had the most difficulty going around the outer curves as I was learning.  I had the tendency to move the quilt sandwich in big sweeping motions which left me with "eye lashing" on the back of the quilt.  This is when your bobbin thread pulls your top thread into a straight line on the back of your quilt.  It's a rarity for me these days, but my first few quilts had this problem a lot.  This is why you use a thread that blends on top and bottom, and have a busy quilt backing when you're learning.  It helps these issues to disappear to the non-quilter eye.  Your quilt top will ALWAYS look nicer than the back.  That's why you need to check your backing regularly as you go.

Also keep a close eye on your bobbin.  You don't want it to run out on you.  Starting and stopping is a bit more difficult if your bobbin runs out or your top thread breaks.

Ending your stitching:

As you come to the end of your bobbin (check it regularly) or just the end of your quilting in general you want to create another knot with your thread.  So just stitch in the same spot several times again, just like we did when we were starting, and trim off the loose threads.

Troubleshooting:

• Check the backside of your quilt to make sure your stitches are looking nice.  If not, try adjusting your speed and or machine tension.  If it's still not, rethread and get a new needle.  If it's still not...you may need a new thread brand.
• If your thread breaks or you run out of bobbin thread.  Take your quilt off of the machine and use the top thread to pull your bobbin thread up to the top.  You'll need to do this several times as you'll need enough length to tie off with square knots and bury your thread in the quilt sandwich (see the Walking Foot portion of the post).  Rethread and begin again as close to the stopping point, where you tied off, as possible.
• Most issues are due to the quilter moving too quickly or slowly.  It just takes practice.  :)

There you have it!!!!  Send any questions my way.  I know it's a lot of information at once.  Read over it all several times before starting.  Even leave yourself a sticky note on your machine if you have to stop to remind you to adjust stitch lengths for the walking foot or FMQ.  Can't tell you how many times I've forgotten to reset that!!!  If your machine allows you to program a stitch...you can do that to save your settings.  Just remember to re-choose that stitch when your machine restarts.

If you don't have a FMQ foot or a Walking foot...stick with straight lines, use a nice sized foot, and realize that you will have to force that quilt through.  Go s-l-o-w-l-y!  That's my best recommendation.  Although...you could always send it off to a quilter to have it done for you.  Seriously...people do that.  Contact a local quilt shop to find people they trust their quilts with for that process.

GOOD LUCK!!!!!  I'm here if you need me!

Sew long for now,

-Amanda-